Oxford

What it is

Oxford is a shirting cloth made in a basket weave. Two fine warp yarns travel together and interlace with one thicker, softer weft yarn. That pairing gives Oxford its small checkerboard texture and its soft, slightly heavy hand.

Construction

A basket weave is a plain weave where yarns work in groups. In Oxford the warp works in pairs against a single heavier weft. The cloth is usually cotton.

Yarn

The classic look comes from a dyed warp and a white weft. The white shows through the colour and softens it, which is why a blue Oxford reads as a pale, chalky blue.

Feel

Soft, substantial and matte. It creases less sharply than poplin and gets softer with washing.

Applications

• Button-down shirts
• Casual and uniform shirting
• Lightweight overshirts

Variations

• Pinpoint Oxford: finer yarns, smoother and dressier
• Royal Oxford: a more elaborate weave with a visible sheen
• Oxford chambray and yarn-dyed stripes

Buyer checks

• Yarn count in warp and weft
• GSM and width
• Shrinkage after wash
• Shade consistency between lots
• Evenness of the basket texture

ATI development options

We can source Oxford from running qualities or develop a version in your count, colour and finish.